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Permaculture Siebzger

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Commenced:	01/09/2010
Submitted:	03/02/2011
Last updated:	07/10/2015
Location:	Siebzger 84, Miesbach, Bavaria, DE
Phone:	0049(0)80259004580
Climate zone:	Cool Temperate

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New preliminary design - tackling work next week.

Project: Permaculture Siebzger

Posted by Sven Horner about 13 years ago

I decided the final layout for the fruit shrubs section and Im going to dig the holes next week. Wanna see the design?

The whole thing is thought to function as a sun trap. Im tying in with what has already been planted and growing (every brown circle stands for an already existing trees trunk in the size of its approximate diameter.)

The green circles demonstrate the plants I will plant in the next few weeks ( I have already dug nearly all of the holes in Febuary to be prepared for the delivery.)

The mound beds ("hügelkultur") looking like a ridge should block the wind, extend the growth period and function as swale, while the keyhole shaped mound beds also do the two last and additionally trap the sun - at least after they got planted properly. Of course it all builds up the soil, too.

The stone and rock field should save heat energy and radiate it into the night. Even the ridge of mound beds forms some kind of sun trap. The largest one is of course formed by the shrubs and trees themselves.

The two big transparent green circles show the future maximum diameter of the one small walnut tree and the already bigger ash.

On the Photo you can (barely) see the small walnut and ash trees and the big ash which are partly also found on the drawing. You can also see the slope. The photo is from around October. Ill update with some photos very soon.

Comments (7)

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Julie Pagliaro : Hi Sven,

Have been looking over your design. One suggestion is to use Russian Comfrey (Bocking 14) so it does not run rampant in your keyhole beds. Bocking 14 is sterile but can be propagated by root cuttings. Many people have commented to me when I tell them I have Comfrey planted throughout my garden and under my fruit trees that it will take over but Russian Bocking 14 stays where you plant it (and this has been my experience so far). It is also supposed to be a good variety for medicinal use and as chicken forage.

http://www.richters.com/Web_store/web_store.cgi?product=X1877&show=all&prodclass=&cart_id=4313730.25292

Best of Luck, Julie Pagliaro

Posted about 13 years ago

Sven Horner : Thank you very much! Until now I didn't hear about any problems with comfrey taking over. But its often used, so I wonder if its really that bad. You did not just try it out? Im not sure if I should just try it out and see if it really spreads that badly.

Posted about 13 years ago

Julie Pagliaro : If you google "comfrey invasive" you will find many references. I have some comfrey officinale seeds and I am thinking of trying them near my chickens but in my garden I decided to use caution... just in case. Perhaps you could try it somewhere other than in your keyhole. If you decide to experiment I will look forward to hearing what happened!

Posted about 13 years ago

Sven Horner : I think I'm going to do that. The site is a partly recultivated dump for digging, after its been a gravel plant for many years. There is much room to experiment. :) I'll let you hear.

Posted about 13 years ago

Andrew Millison : Comfrey is invasive and spreads when it is tilled, that's where it's reputation comes from: farmers, because every little section of chopped up root grows a new plant. But Russian Comfrey is advertised to be non-spreading. I've planted it a lot over the last two years, and visited many sites with established stands that have remained contained

Posted about 13 years ago

Sven Horner : Thank you! But does it behave, if you treat it right? If you do not till? As you might guess, I try to avoid tilling. =D

Posted about 13 years ago

David Muhl : I worked a bit with the russian comfrey this past summer. It grows quickly, but appears to stay in a clump form (not sure if it ever sends out runners). It's hard to imagine an easier plant to propagate! Just dig up a mature plant by the rootball, drop it on the ground to get most of the soil off, half it, quarter it (etc.) until you have pieces that are easy to handle. With a sharp knife, try and separate root pieces that are an inch or two in diameter (with some above ground vegetation still intact, but cut at about 6-7 inches...just some green stalk is fine). Moisten these cuttings, place in a 5 gallon bucket, and lay a moist towel over the top. It's important not to let these cuttings dry out before you plant them. You'll probably have a small pile of rootlets left over as well. These will also grow if they don't dry out. These we propagated in flats in our shade house.

Posted about 13 years ago

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