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East Ismailof Island Permaculture homesite
East Ismailof Island Permaculture homesite
Details
Commenced:
01/08/2014
Submitted:
30/05/2015
Last updated:
07/10/2015
Location:
Coast guard lighthouse point, East Ismailof Island, Halibut Cove, Alaska, US
Phone:
907 299 7591
Climate zone:
Cold Temperate





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site built double pane acrylic windows

Project: East Ismailof Island Permaculture homesite

Posted by Corey Schmidt almost 9 years ago

We are in the beginning phases of creating our small space of abundance, but one success we have had is in the passive solar heating of our house.  The southeast wall is about 140 square feet (20feet long and different heights). Glazing on this wall is around 90- 100 square feet, approximately 65-70%.  We live at latitude 59 so thats a bit more than the recommended minimum rule of thumb (percentage equal to latitude).  Here is a year round heating climate, with summer highs around 60 f.  These days we don't need any supplemental heat and occasionally have to spill heat by opening windows when on sunny days the temperatures inside go well over 80f, but the cool 60degree breeze from outside is just lovely.  As I type this, i'm not wearing a shirt, its 70 degrees inside and i'm looking at a fruiting tomato plant.  Its about 50 degrees outside and tomatoes generally don't fruit outdoors here, and we haven't used any heat other than the sun and incidental heat from cooking inside in weeks.  We are really thrilled about this!.  And I want to share the glazing system i used to do this in a low cost way.  3'x6' clear acrylic panels were purchased. I used one panel on the outside, well flashed to direct water out and sealed it with caulk.  I used a 3/4" wooden spacer and then put weather stripping and tightly fit a second panel to the weather stripping inside the house, holding it in place with 3/4"x3/4" ripped boards screwed onto the wooden frame..  I put a little silica gel in the bottom in the space in between the panes for good measure, and, here is the secret:  I drilled 1/4" holes in the outside pane, at opposite corners (bottom left and top right or vice versa).  This is the secret to keeping them from fogging in between.  Its almost impossible to keep the inside humid air from getting between the panes and cooling down and dropping its water, but if a small amount of the cooler drier outside air is allowed in the space, it heats up and therefore can take on more moisture, which keeps the space fog free.  This same principal could be used to rehab fogged thermal panes.  The insulative value is lowered very little.  When we had just single panes, they were constantly covered in water droplets running down them on the inside facer, and with 2 panes, even with the holes on the outside, there is almost no condensation on the inside pane, only slightly more than the high end commercial thermal panes we have for opening windows elsewhere in the cabin.

Cam00907 Cam00908 Cam00909 Southwallglazing

Comments (10)

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Nathan Dow
Nathan Dow : Man, I'm green with envy. I'm living in North Carolina and our winters aren't even that cold (compared to Alaska, especially), yet I feel like I'm freezing in our house with the gas furnace thermostat set to 70F! Will you remodel my house? ;)
Posted almost 9 years ago

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Corey Schmidt
Corey Schmidt : you can maybe add a greenhouse on the southside, shaded by vines in summer, if you have a door or window you could open when it was heating up inside the greenhouse to bring the heat in. greenhouse can be nice made of polycarbonate or just a very simple wood frame with greenhouse plastic (comes in rolls like visquine, though i've never bought it), which should be quite cheap. something like that could even be a temporary structure built for a couple hundred dollars materials and a couple of days labor.
Posted almost 9 years ago

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Corey Schmidt
Corey Schmidt : our house heats up even on cloudy days also, so in your climate getting that extra heat should be no prob if you have southern exposure, either add windows up to the percentage of your latitude or add on the greenhouse
Posted almost 9 years ago

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Corey Schmidt
Corey Schmidt : overhang of your roof is important, but here's a good website that tells sun angles any day of the year and time of day http://aa.usno.navy.mil/data/docs/AltAz.php
Posted almost 9 years ago

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Corey Schmidt
Corey Schmidt : greenhouse plastic for sale on ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR5.TRC1.A0.H1.Xgreenhouse+plastic.TRS0&_nkw=greenhouse+plastic&_sacat=0
Posted almost 9 years ago

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Nathan Dow
Nathan Dow : I think the main problem is that it needs to be fully air sealed (which I have been doing myself, slowly) and more insulation. I think most of the attic has less than 3" of insulation and the walls have none. Good suggestions, though. Getting my wife on board is a different story (haha). :)
Posted almost 9 years ago

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Corey Schmidt
Corey Schmidt : oh i see. yes the window system here is r2 but i built the rest of the cabin tight and 2x6 walls with full fiberglass insulation and the ceiling 2x6 plus one inch of foam on the inside. One key ingredient lacking is extra thermal mass, but i have a plan to use some of the earth below as thermal mass when i eventually get around to that project
Posted almost 9 years ago

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Jan Åberg
Jan Åberg : Hi Corey! This looks very nice! Here are some questions: Why did you choose acrylic? (Why not glass or polycarbonate?). Can you recommend a reference/book/website for the "percentage equal to latitude"-rule?
Posted almost 9 years ago

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Corey Schmidt
Corey Schmidt : I think Geoff said the percentage= latitude rule. i think somewhere in climate design about housing and i think i heard Bill say it in a youtube video also. whether you shade the glazing in summer with roof overhangs will depend on how hot your climate is and how much thermal mass you've got: if you are using a lot of earth as thermal mass, it will moderate your summer temp and store that excess heat for winter. I chose acrylic because of price. Polycarbonate is stronger than acrylic, and both polycarbonate and glass are more expensive than acrylic. Acrylic is less breakable than glass, easier to transport to my remote homesite, and i can cut it myself to any shape i want with a table saw, much simpler than cutting glass. it is flammable, while glass is not. Polycarbonate is probably a 'better' material, but it is also a multiple of the expense of acrylic. I spent $600 on the acrylic for over 100 square feet of glazing (thats double glazed, so over 200 square feet of actual acrylic) by comparison the structure i'm building now for someone else for pay has about 70 square feet of glazing, with modern LowE thermal panes and frames already made, and those windows cost nearly $5000, plus the low emissivity coating reduces the light transmission to about 55% vs the 92% for clear acrylic (http://www.plexiglas.com/export/sites/plexiglas/.content/medias/downloads/sheet-docs/plexiglas-general-information-and-physical-properties.pdf) but the 92% is for one layer, so for two layers its somewhere around 85%. Even to have cheap thermal panes made without any frames, would have cost me around double the price of the acrylic, and they would be fragile, difficult to transport, and subject to irreversible fogging when the seals failed, as they inevitably do. with my system if any pane breaks its easy to replace.
Posted over 8 years ago

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Robert Hones
Robert Hones : These days, we don't use any additional heating, though we occasionally have to let heat out by opening windows when the interior temperature rises beyond 80 degrees Fahrenheit on bright days. However, the cold 60-degree breeze from the outside is really delightful. | siding repair baltimore
Posted 7 months ago

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